Let’s take a brief break from politics — yes, we are allowed! — and talk about a quintessential Califonia roadtrip.
OK, so gas prices are high, especially here in the Golden State, where we were paying an average of $5.84 a gallon as of Wednesday.
But the weather is warm and the road is calling. This is the first summer in three years during which Highway 1 through Big Sur — a cliff-hugging, two-lane roadway with spectacular ocean views — is completely open after extended closures because of landslides and rockfalls.
Drivers are heading out in big numbers.
My colleague Christopher Reynolds reported that, as of May, northbound traffic at Ragged Point, the southern gateway to Big Sur, has risen an eye-popping 900% year-over-year, and local businesses are experiencing their busiest summer in years.
The influx has prompted the Monterey County Board of Supervisors to explore a yearlong ban on parking near the iconic, irresistibly Instagrammable Bixby Bridge, where illegal street parking and pedestrians in the roadway have created dangerous conditions.
Vehicular and pedestrian traffic on Highway 1 at Bixby Bridge in Big Sur on May 30, 2026.
(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)
Myung Chun, a Times photographer and avid motorcycle rider, was there when Highway 1 reopened in January and returned in late May with a GoPro camera strapped to his chest and a 360-degree camera mounted on his bike.
Chun, 60, has been riding Highway 1 since he bought his first motorcycle in 1990. He most recently drove to Big Sur on a 2013 Honda CB500X that mercifully gets about 70 miles per gallon. He kindly answered some of my questions about the drive. Our conversation has been lightly edited for length and clarity.
What is special about the Highway 1 ride through Big Sur?
To be out there with the cool weather and wind and the bike running great, with the stress of the city behind you and the view of this ribbon of asphalt, bright blue ocean, light traffic (for the most part) — they’re all ingredients that create this incredible experience.
The view from Myung Chun’s GoPro camera as he drives a motorcycle near Bixby Bridge in Big Sur on May 30, 2026. Chun has been riding Highway 1 since 1990.
(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)
What is the road like on a motorcycle?
A curvy road is a biker’s delight. It challenges you to find the smoothest arc through the turn. The bike leaning pushes you down into your seat — positive G-force — with the same sensation as when an airplane banks. The right hand, left hand, right foot and left foot all do their respective jobs, and it makes for smooth and effortless riding. It’s all very Zen.
Have you ever seen as crowded as it was last month?
Most of the highway was fairly empty. It’s a long highway, so the cars were all spread out. The resorts and especially Bixby Bridge were pretty crowded. There are lots of pedestrians to watch out for near these places.
What was it like in January to see it reopen?
I was at the south end roadblock waiting for it to open. I met some people who were there for hours. There were about a dozen vehicles lined up waiting for the barricades to be removed. At noon, the road opened up, people waved and drove down an empty highway. It was fun to see people excited about that.
Would you recommend the trip on a motorcycle, crowds and all?
I would definitely recommend this trip. The road is still mostly empty, but there will be pockets of traffic. And the popular spots will be probably be crowded, so be prepared for that. But the highway is open — so enjoy it now.
Today’s top stories
People look at cars submerged in flood waters in the 2300 block of West Willow Street in Long Beach in February 2024.
(Allen J. Schaben/Los Angeles Times)
The race for L.A. mayor
El Niño is here
- El Niño has officially arrived, and the latest edition is shaping up to be particularly potent.
- A very strong El Niño often means drenching storms, flooding and mudslides in Southern California, as seen in the destructive winters of 1982-83, 1997-98 and the soaking 2023-24 season.
- The secrets of El Niño were partially unlocked by this hidden gem in ocean science.
The World Cup!
Inside college AI cheating wars
David Hockney is dead at 88
Artist David Hockney at a 2018 exhibition of newly painted portraits at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art in Los Angeles.
(Luis Sinco/Los Angeles Times)
- The innovative and prolific British artist who arrived in Los Angeles in 1964, soon celebrating its sun-drenched life and landscapes in colorful, wildly popular paintings, died Thursday.
- Hockney immortalized the city’s sparkling swimming pools, palm trees and beautiful young men, then went on to experiment with intricate photo collages, portrait suites, painted and filmed images of Yorkshire landscapes, iPad drawings and more.
What else is going on
Commentary and opinions
This morning’s must-read
Other must-reads
For your downtime
A lifeguard watches over swimmers at Hansen Dam Aquatic Center’s massive 1.5-acre pool, which recently reopened for summer.
(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)
Going out
Staying in
A question for you: What’s your favorite California summer song?
Michael says, “That’s easy! ‘Hot Fun in the Summertime,’ by Sly and the Family Stone.”
Email us at essentialcalifornia@latimes.com, and your response might appear in the newsletter this week.
And finally … the photo of the day
Julia Lee’s surprising DIY turf project in Cheviot Hills shows how embracing imperfection can be powerful. “The garden is beautiful in the spring, and then it goes dormant in the summer,” she said. “It doesn’t have to look perfect. It’s a good life lesson.”
(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)
Today’s great photo is from Times photographer Kayla Bartkowski at the Cheviot Hills home of Julia Lee who tore out her lawn and planted a “wabi-sabi” wonderland.
Have a great day, from the Essential California team
Hailey Branson-Potts, staff reporter
Hugo Martín, assistant editor, Fast Break desk
Kevinisha Walker, multiplatform editor
Andrew J. Campa, weekend writer
Karim Doumar, head of newsletters
How can we make this newsletter more useful? Send comments to essentialcalifornia@latimes.com.